What is the benefit of using a Mezzaluna Knife over a traditional knife

Question

These seem popular in many modern knife sets, and I have seen them used (somewhat clumsily) in Europe.

I have briefly tried some before, but couldn't see the benefit of it. But then again no one seemed to know how to use it correctly

Does anyone actually use these to good effect? If so, what is actually gained over a normal knife?

Which type (single or double blade) and size does this apply to?

Examples:

Asked by TFD

Answer

Advantages

• no hand needed to hold the food, therefore safer for children or those lacking knife skills
• quicker for those lacking knife skills
• no need for gloves when cutting foods that can irritate the skin, like chillies.

Disadvantages

• Awkward and dangerous to wash in between the blades for the double-blade version.
• Difficult to store safely
• A unitasker really only suited for chopping herbs and spices. The most common items chopped in many cuisines, onion and garlic, would require rough chopping first with a traditional knife, making it hardly worth it.
• Inhibits the development of valuable knife skills.

Answered by jontyc

Check more discussion of this question.

How to test that a knife is sharp enough?

Question

As per the question - how to I test that a knife is sharp enough?
And/or, how do you know when a knife needs sharpening?

---

Edit:

Yesterday I attempted (I feel quite successfully) to hone my knives for the first time ever (requiring me to purchase a honing steel), which immediately made a rather noticable difference (I shall be honing them regularly from now on).

Not sure whether additionally sharpening them as well would be a good idea?

The suggested tomato and paper tests make sense, and I shall try them in the near future and see..

Asked by DMA57361

Answer

I usually notice when cutting onions and tomatoes. With a very sharp knife cutting an onion doesn't cause much tears at all. As it dulls though it does more crushing than slicing which releases more gas into the air, which makes you cry more. Ripe tomatoes help because they are so tender. If it becomes difficult to slice a tomato without crushing it, your knife is too dull.

A well used, properly cared for knife should require sharpening every 6-18 months, depending on usage. Mine get sharpened yearly.

You may find it beneficial to read these related questions, and their answers:

• http://cooking.stackexchange.com/questions/1137/how-can-i-safely-improve-my-cutting-technique
• http://cooking.stackexchange.com/questions/315/how-do-you-care-for-your-knives
• http://cooking.stackexchange.com/questions/1804/why-not-put-knives-in-the-dishwasher

Answered by hobodave

Check more discussion of this question.

Are electric knives used in foodservice?

Question

After learning several months ago that immersion blenders and many other kitchen gadgets/appliances have foodservice equivalents that are usually much more powerful and durable than the consumer equivalents, I've been on the lookout for a "foodservice-grade" electric knife.

However, after scouring several of my usual physical and online restaurant supply sources, it would appear that I'm chasing a ghost. "Electric [carving] knife" is a foreign concept. It's possible that they just go by another name (e.g. foodservice immersion blenders are often called "power mixers" or just "mixers") but I don't think so.

So for those who've worked at one: Are electric knives ever seen in professional kitchens? If so, do they just use the cheap consumer products or is there a commercial equivalent? And if not, then why not - is it deemed impractical over a good-quality "manual" carving knife or is there some other reason why they seem to be shunned?

Asked by Aaronut

Answer

I would consider the professional equivalent of the electric carving knife to be the meat slicer, i.e. the rotating blade device most often seen behind the deli counter.

At home, to break down a roast bird, take the meat off of a lamb-leg, etc., a good manual knife is most likely the proper tool.

If, on the other hand, I have a large ham (cooked or cold), or some other chunk of boneless meat that I want to slice more-or-less uniformly, then I will break out my electric knife. For the home user, it is a fairly practical device, not taking up too much space, etc.

But its uniformity and speed cannot compare to the slicer. As to a professional kitchen, you may or may not find one there. Certainly in deli-type restaurants you would have them. In a more traditional restaurant they are not as concerned with quick production of sliced meat, so any slicing is probably done by hand.

Answered by sdg

Check more discussion of this question.

Do German or Japanese knives hold their edge longer?

Question

I want to buy a chef's knife, but I can't sharpen, and I don't plan to learn it. I will have to send my knives for sharpening, so I obviously prefer this to happen as rarely as possible.

I am leaning towards a Solingen style knife, probably a forged Zwilling. But I read in an answer herethat the Japanese style knives like Global need less frequent sharpening. This surprised me, as I seem to recall reading the opposite somewhere (but don't recall where).

Assumed that I hone the knife after use, which type will need less frequent sharpening?

Asked by rumtscho

Answer

The reason you're seeing conflicting opinions is because their two different things going on here - in opposite directions.

German/European knives are made of a softer steel than Japenese knives - they need sharpening more often but are easier to sharpen because of the softness. Since the steel in Japanese harder, it needs to be sharpened less often.

The other factor is the angle of the edge - the German/European angle is flatter than the Japanese knives. This means the German knives take 'abuse' better on the edge and requires less sharpening because of that. You can see below that there are two different angles:

As far as which requires sharpening less, I'd say it depends on how general purpose your knife is going to be. If its going to be going through bone and all sorts of things, the German edge will probably stay a bit better and the softer steel will re-hone better. If you're mainly cutting veggies, breads, cheeses, and other soft items - the Japanese knife will last longer because the difference of edge doesn't matter as much as the steel here.

Answered by rfusca

Check more discussion of this question.

How should I care for my knives?

Question

I've finally put down the money to buy a quality knife and it's sharpness is amazing!

How do I take care of it so that the edge lasts and the knife stays sharp?

Asked by Eclipse

Answer

Technique

• Always use a cutting surface made for a knife, particularly a wooden chopping board/block. Avoid contact with hard surfaces such as metal, glass, or stone; these will quickly cause dulling or even chipping of most knives. Also avoid cutting frozen items, for the same reason.

• Use the dull end ("top") of the knife for scraping food off surfaces, or use a scraper or spatula instead. Knives are meant to cut straight, along the edge; scraping one sideways across any surface will misalign the edge very quickly.

• Do not use more force than necessary. A sharp knife should cut with very little effort. The more pressure you apply, the faster it will dull.

• Use a cleaver for bones or other very hard foods. General-purpose chef's knives or smaller knives aren't appropriate for this task, and may chip or even snap.

General Care

• Wash or rinse knives promptly after use. The moisture in many foods can be acidic and/or corrosive to the metal (fruits, onions, etc.).

• Dry knives immediately with a soft cloth or towel. Stainless steel is resistant to rust and corrosion but not immune. This goes for all metal but especially knives, because even an imperceptible amount of rust along the edge will drastically hinder its ability to cut. Air-drying may also leave you with stains or "spots" due to salts and other trace minerals in the water.

• Store knives in a dry, open area, away from other objects, to avoid moisture build-up, impacts, and secondary rust.

• Do not put a knife in the dishwasher. A knife in a dishwasher is subject to impacts, corrosion, and warping of the wooden handle/joint. Quality knives should be hand-washed.

Honing

Honing a knife is a good way to restore a slightly dull knife. You will need an honing steel (sometimes misleadingly referred to as a sharpening steel), which can be bought inexpensively. Note that there are differences between steels; the best value tends to be in the $30 (USD) range.

Honing is not the same as sharpening. Honing helps to align the existing edge, which becomes skewed or "curled" after regular use. It will not help to create a new edge if the knife is damaged, e.g. if it is corroded or chipped due to not following the "General Care" advice above.

To hone a knife:

1. Keep the honing steel vertical.
2. Hold the knife at a slight angle to the steel.
3. Stroke downward and towards yourself.
4. Alternate strokes, and do an equal number of times on both sides.

Here is a video illustrating the technique.

Sharpening

Knife sharpening involves a whetstone (AKA sharpening stone) and is an art unto itself. Some knife manufacturers do explain the process, however, the technique takes a long time to master and most home cooks will prefer to leave this to a professional.

If you find that regular honing is no longer effective at maintaining a knife's edge - and if it's been well-maintained, this should take several weeks or months - then it's time to get the knife sharpened.

• An alternative to professional sharpening (or learning to use a whetstone) is to use a good-quality motorized electric sharpener, such as the Chef's Choice. This will obviously not yield the same result as a professional sharpening, but it is very convenient and fast.

  Some people believe that all electric sharpeners will damage your knives. This may still be true of the cheaper, single-stage sharpeners, because they do a lot of grinding and generate a lot of heat. However, the more modern, higher-end sharpeners operate very quickly, have precise angle control, and use multiple stages mimicking the manual process (grinding, steeling, stropping).

  The "grinding" stage on a multi-stage sharpener should only be used if the knife is already badly damaged, and will actually create a new edge. If your knife is in reasonable shape, then it's fine to use a good sharpener on a semi-regular basis as long as you don't grind too much. (Honing should still be your primary form of maintenance).

• Yet another option, if you're on a tight budget, is to use sandpaper. Follow the link for additional information on technique, grit, and tutorials.

Answered by n/a

Check more discussion of this question.

knife advice - good knife and good care

Question

At home i have this knife: http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?SKU=11097073&RN=1038&

I picked that one up several years ago, but haven't done much in the way of any maintenance on it. I did pick up a cheap sharpener but it didn't seem to have much effect so i stopped using it.

The knife seems dull to me. It doesn't cut through things as easily as i think it should. For example, resting the blade on a ripe firm tomatoe, i would think the blade should be able to slice through without me applying much, or any, downward pressure and without pushing in the shape of the tomatoe. It should basically just start slicing through under it's own weight and without squishing the tomatoe at all.

Let me know if that sounds like an unrealistic expectation.

So i have 2 questions:

1. is that (or was it before i didn't maintain it correctly) a good knife? In searching here i saw victorinox suggested as a good value. Is the one i have worth keeping or should i purchase a new one?

2. Does anyone know of a chain store (or local store in the LA area) that i can take it to to get it re-sharpened? And what should i be doing to maintain it's usefulness after it's re-sharpened?

I assume the answer to the 2nd part of question 2 is this: How do you care for your knives? - specifically the part about getting honing steel? does it matter which one i get or can i just get a $10-$15 one on amazon?

Thanks

Asked by merk

Answer

There's a difference between sharpening and honing your knifes. If your knives need sharpening, you should take it to a professional. After a few years of moderate use, it's probably time. Michael has a good suggestion, but only if you plan on sharpening your knives often enough to make it worth it. For regular maintenance, you want to use a honing steel on your knives, which will straighten out any place where the edge has "rolled". This does not actually "sharpen" the knife, as the sharpening process removes steel to create a new edge.

There is some difference between honing steels. In my own research a little while back, I decided they fell into about 3 basic types:

1. "Cheap" - These are the $10 steels. They have small metal ridges running down the steel. These ridges are really too rough for honing, could remove steel from the blade, and won't put a very good finish on your edge.
2. "Regular" - These are the $30-ish steels, and the ones that come with most good knife sets (Wusthof, etc). They do not have ridges, but have a slightly rough finish. Properly used, this is the best choice for most people.
3. "Combo" - The $50+ honing steels are also sharpeners. They will have some sort of diamond-coat finish which will sharpen your knife as well as honing it. I've heard praise for these, but I prefer to separate the honing and sharpening steps. While a regular honing steel is safe to use on a regular basis, you should only use one of these about every 6 months to a year, or you'll grind down your knives too much.

You can also get a ceramic honing rod, which would add an even finer finish, which you could use in addition to a regular honing steel.

Answered by Bob

Check more discussion of this question.

Where can I find a quality comparison for Zwilling Knives?

Question

I'm trying to find comparisons between various knives from Zwilling. I know the difference between the lines: JA Henckels International tends to be of different build quality as compared to Zwilling.

However, I'm having trouble differentiating between the different knives from within the Zwilling brand. For instance, sets are named things like Cuisine, Gourmet, Signature, Four Star, and Professional S.

Even the Zwilling website doesn't really offer too much information about the specific lines. In fact, it doesn't even list some of the lines I've seen for sale, such as Gourmet. Can anyone provide info about these knives, or a link to further descriptions and comparisons?

Answer

There's a serious dearth of information about the differences between the Henckels product lines, but from what I can tell:

• The biggest difference is the handle design, which impacts the balance. You'll want to hold the knives to find which is right for you.
• Stamped blades are used in the following lines: Twin Signature, Twin Gourmet, International Everedge, International Everedge Plus, International Fine Edge Pro, International Fine Edge Synergy, International Eversharp. Source: Henckels Site.
• Forged blades are used for the following lines: Twin Profection, Twin Four Star and Four Star II, Twin Cuisine, Twin Professional S, Twin Select, International Classic, International Forged Premio, and International Forged Synergy. Sources: Henckels site, Squidoo, Amazon
• Microserrated blades are used in the following product lines: Eversharp Pro, Everedge, Everedge Plus (Source: Henckels International website)
• All but the Twin Cermax line are X50CrMoV15 steel, hardened to 54-56 HRC (some reports say up to 57 Rockwell C). This means they're slightly softer than Wusthof (which now hardens many of their products to 58 HRC), but less brittle.
• Twin Cermax uses special, superhard (66 HRC) MC66 steel, meaning they take a sharper edge and hold it MUCH longer than the other lines. This is probably a clone of the ZDP-189 supersteel. (source)

The microserrated blades aid in slicing, but hurt the ability to chop and mince. They WILL help retain a cutting edge longer, but also cannot be sharpened normally.

Check more discussion of this question.

How to find a competent knife sharpener

Question

I have a santoku that I will be wanting to get professionally sharpened in the next few months. This is the first knife I've owned that was reasonably expensive so I want to make sure I take care of it. Are most professional knife sharpening places familiar with the differences in Japanese knife edges vs a more traditional (for the U.S.) German knife? For example, the angle is different and one side is flat on my santoku compared to, say, a French chef's knife.

Aside from just asking them if they know what they are doing, are there any specifics I should look for or questions to ask in finding someone who can do this properly? Also, is there any kind of reasonable price range I should expect or does that vary too much to say?

Answer

Allow me to help you fast forward through my years of pain trying to get my knives sharpened. I looked all over to find a local sharpening service. I called fancy restaurants, chain restaurants, and restaurant supply stores. I found one who said they performed the service and promptly had three knives really scratched up.

I tried doing the sharpening myself. This isn't a bad idea, but most home sharpening systems won't let you put a true new edge on your knife. The best luck I had was with a Spyderco Sharpmaker. This will do a good job, but I found it to be a pain, and it never really got me the results I was looking for.

Then I discovered sharpening by mail. Its awesome. Ship your knives off, get them back in a state where you should keep bandaids handy. Here is an article from the Wall Street Journal comparing several services -> http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052748703405704575014992111661922.html. I used the Knife Guy and couldn't have been happier. Unfortunately, it looks like he's no longer accepting new customers since the article came out, but the other services they compared seem to have done well.

One other Note. I read in an interview with Alton brown that he only sends his knives off to be professionally sharpened once a year or so. If you use a honing steel properly that's all you should need. I've certainly found that to be the case with me.

Check more discussion of this question.

What is the proper way to dispose of a kitchen knife?

Question

How do you throw away a kitchen knife (or for that matter, any knife)? It seems extremely dangerous to just throw it in the dumpster, even if it's wrapped up real well.

Answer

I agree on the Goodwill thing, but it pains me to think of putting tape on a knife blade -- someone's going to have to clean it off, and that risks someone getting injured.

Instead, find a piece of cardboard that's longer than the blade of the knife, and more than twice the depth of the blade with an inch (~3 cm) or more to spare.

Fold the cardboard in half, so it's now roughly larger than the size of the blade, and then place the blade so the back of the knife is against the fold (you can do it the other way, but you'll risk dulling the knife ... cutting paper isn't good for knives), then tape it down.

You want to make sure it's well compressed, so the knife is being held in by friction. You could always sandwich something rubbery in there with it to help with the friction.

(this is how I used to transport my knives when moving between apartments)

...

Another alternative, if you're really disposing of it, and don't mind dulling the blade, is to poke it into a piece of corrougated cardboard. Just find a piece that's longer and wider than the blade, set it on the edge of your counter, put a hand on top to hold it steady, and then slowly push the blade in.

Check more discussion of this question.

Can you sharpen a ceramic knife?

Question

Well, that's my question. Can you sharpen a ceramic knife?

Answer

Ceramic blades can only be sharpened against something that is harder than it is. I would recommend sending it back to the manufacturer for sharpening if needed. Typically it is done using a very hard abrasive wheel because of the risk of the blade breaking, you do not want to do this without proper safety equipment.

Check more discussion of this question.

What should I look for in a good, multi-purpose chef's knife?

Question

If I want to buy a good multi-purpose chef's knife, which characteristics should I look for?

Answer

One of the most important things is a full tang. The tang is an extension of the metal of the blade into the handle. In knives with a full tang it goes all the way through the handle. This improves stability, control, and durability. Cheaper knives with partial tangs will have the handle break off over time.

In a chef's knife you want a blade from 8 to 10 inches long, whichever is more comfortable.

You can also either get a forged or stamped blade. I suggest reading this article on the differences. To summarize, forged blades are softer, easier to sharpen, heavier, and have a bolster. Stamped blades are sharper, harder to sharpen, lighter, and have a welded on bolster if any. With current manufacturing processes forged is not necessarily better than stamped. You should make your own decisions. All crap knives are stamped, but not all stamped knives are crap.

This brings me to one of the most important points: It must feel good in your hand. Don't buy an expensive knife just because it's expensive, or you recognize the name. Go to a store that will let you use the knife, Williams-Sonoma is one that will do this. If you can, bring a carrot in your pocket and actually cut that in the store.

_{I'll do some research on steel quality and update this later.}

Check more discussion of this question.

Cutting boards: What are some general tips on purchasing and using a cutting board?

Question

I have heard various debates on the merits of wood versus synthetic cutting boards, and their affect on food safety, knife edges, and ease of cleaning and storage.

What are the pros and cons of the following and why?

• Wood versus plastic or other materials
• Affect on food safety and cleanliness
• Cost to purchase
• Affect on knife edge and ease of use

Answer

I use two types of cutting boards: wood and [soft] plastic. The plastic is for meat, or anything that could ruin a wood cutting board. Wood is for everything else. If you can afford it, try to get an end-grain wood cutting board.

Bamboo is a popular choice right now (it's affordable and sustainable), but I don't have any personal experience with it.

Most other materials, especially glass, will ruin your knives.

Check more discussion of this question.

Do honing steels wear out?

Question

We have a knife set that's approximately 15 years old, and as we were honing a knife tonight, a question arose. Do honing steels get worn down over the years? Should they be replaced? If so, how often?

Answer

They are either made of surface hardened steel, which can't be realistically sharpened, or bonded with tungsten or diamond grit, again which can't be realistically replaced

Most steels just need a good clean; soak the steel in warm soapy water for a while, and then give it an aggressive scrub with a nylon bristle brush. Dry thoroughly

If it still does not hone well, then maybe it's time to buy a new one?

I am using a full size silver handled surface hardened steel that is 70+ years old and still works fine. It looks quite beaten up, has had surface rust, but always brings a knife back to life

I have a short portable diamond grit steel for camping that is less than 5 years old, and is nearly useless already

There doesn't seem to be consensus on what exactly a honing steel does to a knifes edge. But to me it's a very fine file, so it will wear out over time. Considering the normal usage in a domestic situation that could be a very long time

Check more discussion of this question.