Friday, September 30, 2011

Salted butter in toffee

Question

What effects would using salted butter instead of unsalted butter have on a toffee recipe?

I'm using the basic

  • Equal parts butter and sugar
  • Heat to soft crack (285 F)
  • Poor into flat cooking sheet or something similar to cool

Answer

Besides the obvious - your toffee will have more salt in it? Salted butter also contains more water than unsalted butter, and varies more on both salt and moisture content on a brand-by-brand basis than unsalted butter. A higher percent of water means less fat, so after the water cooks out, your ratio of fat to sugar will be off somewhat.

Possible to over-knead dough?

Question

It will be my first attempt to bake with yeast this weekend and I'm interested to know how you know when you have kneaded dough enough. Is it possible to over-knead dough?

If it makes a difference I'll be making croissants.

Thank you :)

Answer

Cookbooks describe the state as "smooth and elastic" I think this is a reasonable description.

When the dough is first mixed it is very wet and sticky. As it is mixed you can see a lot of clumps and heterogeneous textures.

As the proteins in the flour mix with water they form gluten and the kneading folds the elastic gluten over itself again and again making sheets. The dough becomes less sticky and wet and more springy. The texture becomes completely homogeneous.

Kneading by hand it is impossible to over knead this type of dough. I have read that it is possible to over knead in a machine. In this case, supposedly, the protein sheets eventually rip up enough that you lost what you created and the dough reverts. I have kneaded in a machine for a long time and never personally seen this effect.

What makes a good quality pasta brand?

Question

When I browse the pasta aisle I see a number of different brands (De Cecco, Rummo, etc.). Are there any notable differences between these brands?

If I have a choice between different brands of the same pasta (spaghetti, penne, etc.), how should I determine which brand is appropriate for me?

Answer

The biggest indicator I've found of quality dried pasta is how rough it feels when you rub it between your fingers. Compare Barilla and De Cecco spaghetti to see what I mean. The best brands use copper dies when extruding their pasta and this lends a rougher texture that will hold sauce better than plastic or teflon extruded pastas.

Thursday, September 29, 2011

What differences, practical and aesthetic, are there between egg washes?

Question

An egg wash can be done in six major variations: [with | out egg white] mixed with [water | milk | cream].

My first hit when searching 'egg wash ratio' My Persian Kitchen where the use was for pastries. He advocated a ratio of 1 egg : 1-1.5 tbsp water for the purpose of browning.

He also mentioned the variations above. In my case I will be baking and frying (browning top of loaf in oven, then washing and flouring before frying), however use cases are not restricted to just those two.

  • What are the principal differences between washes, and what practical import do the six main ones have?
    • What chemical causes underpin these differences? (e.g. "...the higher ratio of protein to blah, blah...", "water promotes browning more than...")
    • What interactions do these chemical causes have between use on meat, vegetable, pastry, and bread?
  • Are there any other special washes/ratios for more particular uses? (i.e. egg white only, egg:vinegar,bourbon,etc)

Answer

Good question @mfg. I hope I can help a little bit. The basics behind the egg wash are to provide for a couple different thing. These being shine, crispness, and color.

Shine The shine is primarily provided by the egg yolk. The higher concentration of yolk the more shine.

Crispness This come from the egg whites. The whites make things a little crispy and sometimes can crackle a little bit (mainly when usually by themselves).

Color This comes from the fat and protein. Leaving the yoke in along with the shine will add color. You can add water to lighten the color a bit. I find that using the white also dilutes the color a bit but not as much (but the white also makes it crisp). Add cream or milk to get it a little bit darker.

Salt I often find people adding salt to an egg wash. I does provide some flavor to the crust, but I have noticed that for some reason (when using a whole egg) it does allow it to get a little darker than it would normally.

Sugar Like salt it adds flavor (sweetness) to the crust. And it will also add some color. Especially if baking at a higher temp and using a raw or brown type sugar.

Alcohol I have seen the use of alcohol quite a number of times. From the results I have seen it behaves like water. Although not the the same degree. My guess is that it has to do with how fast the alcohol evaporates. As far as flavor, I can't say that it added much at the levels used. I did once definitely get a hint of a bourbon being used in the wash on a pretty plain white loaf. But they did mix in quite a good amount of bourbon to just an egg yolk.

That is all I have really used myself or seen. I am sure that you can use other liquids although I don't know what vinegar would do. Just keep in mind if they are high in fat, protein, or sugar they will add color. Otherwise they will lighten the color.

I have also seen melted butter just used as a wash. It adds a nice color and buttery flavor. I haven't seen it added to egg wash but I would assume you could add to egg yolk to get a shine and probably darker color than cream/milk.

Another important thing to remember is to beat your wash well when using for a bread coating. Unlike if your just using the was was to seal say a ravioli. If your egg was is spotty not one nice fully incorporated mixture your crust can also be spotty.

Wednesday, September 28, 2011

How can I use persimmons in a cooked dish?

Question

I've recently had my first taste of a persimmon, having no idea how it tastes or how it should be eaten, I cut it into slices and ate it like an apple.

It is a very interesting sweet taste, and would like to know how I can incorporate it into a cooked meal or dish?

Answer

Raw

Personally, growing up I've usually just eat it raw after it's ripened. That's the only form that i've a experienced a persimmon.

Nonethless, a quick google reveals use as a sauce:

This morning, I cooked the last of the mushy persimmons into a second batch of persimmon sauce. The first, served over bread pudding on a whim one evening, was so popular that it was deemed worthy of the last persimmons. It’s simple and delicious, primarily because, as I discovered, a generous serving of nutmeg and a bit of meyer lemon is the best way to season persimmon anything!

Source: Oakland Garden Kitchen

In this article, Oakland Garden Kitchen blogger, also lists a recipes for persimmon bread published by David Lebovitz. Lebovitz has a very comprehensive blog article about persimmons.

Persimmon in Bread

In this blog, he provides an adaptation of James Beard's, "Beard on Bread", Persimmon Bread recipe. If you don't like this version of the recipe. Epicurean has another version.

Persimmon as an Entree

Wine Press NW also once published a recipe of use of persimmon as a glaze for salmon.

Putting warm food in the fridge

Question

Not sure if this question is appropriate for here, but I heard that putting really warm food in the fridge right after cooking it is not the right thing to do. It might cause bacterial growth? Is this true?

Answer

Two problems

  1. Hot or warm food will briefly warm up food already in fridge, especially items immediately near it, and cycling temperatures doesn't not help fresh food quality or life

  2. It is very power inefficient to do this, just let it cool on the bench until it reaches room temperature and then place it in the refrigerator

Can you freeze jalapenos?

Question

It's getting colder outside and I have a lot of jalapenos in my garden. I like eating them fresh (not cooked) on homemade tacos and omelets, etc.

If I freeze them and thaw them out later in the winter, will they still be as spicy and crunchy, or does the freezing and thawing take some flavor away from them?

Answer

I have a whole freezer full of jalapenos - so yes, you definitely can.

They definitely retain their heat just fine.

They keep their texture better if you do 2 things:

  • Use a vacuum sealer and take out all the air - to reduce freezer burn. Because of this, I recommend you freeze them in batches.

  • Blanche them for 2-3 minutes in boiling water and then drop them in freezing water. From what I've read, this destroys a particular enzyme that helps not break the pepper down further. I've done this and not done this - and doing it definitely helps on the texture.

They should be good for a little over a year in a vacuum sealed bag - as far as the texture goes. They should never go bad otherwise.

Cos and Sobachatina - bring up another good point: freezing fast and effectively. You can try AB's method that Cos points out, but I do what Sobachatina does. Freeze on a single layer on a tray in the freezer. They freeze quicker and better than dumping them in a bag.

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

What is maggiorana and how can I use it

Question

Someone left me a jar of maggiorana and I have no clue what to do with it (other than pass it on to someone). Wikipedia says "marjoram is synonymous with oregano", but the stuff I have tastes and smells nothing like oregano. smells almost like tea and is almost tasteless.

What purpose does it serve and where can I use it?

Answer

Marjoram is botanically an oregano subspecies, but it does taste entirely different (a situation very common in herbs, think spearmint and peppermint). The description "smells almost like tea and is almost tasteless" indicates that you got mass-produced stuff where the good aromas have long left the dried plant matter. Fresh marjoram is a rather mild herb, but it still has a distinct aroma, and not a generally "grassy" one.

The aroma of majoran isn't very intrusive, so it can easily be combined with many flavors. It is very often used with potato dishes of any kind, but a big herb producer recommends it for practically everything:

Potato soup and salad, potato dumplings and fried potatoes, meat and sausage salad, all salty cheese dishes, meat loaf, chicken fillings, and especially to homemade lard, duck and goose, rabbit and pork fat. Marjoram is good also for dark mushrooms, cucumbers, all bean dishes and feed legumes, stuffed tomatoes and tomato soup, carrots, peas, sour cream sauce, herb mayonnaise and herb cheese, all heart, liver, kidney, lung dishes, tripe, fish soups and fish stews, fish baked in fat, pie fillings, soups and wild game stew.

It would have been perfect if you had the fresh stuff, but even the dried herb is better than nothing. Just add it to some dish (you can use big amounts, because it is already weak) and decide if you like it.

Can I refreeze defrosted crumb topping?

Question

I have a crumb topping (margarine + brown sugar + flour) that I usually make double or triple the recipe of and then freeze. Sometimes I don't divide it evenly and end up with extra dough when I defrost a section. Can I refreeze the dough or should I just toss it because it'll affect the taste? (What about cookie dough?)

Answer

Generally, freezing and re-freezing is not a big issue. Some things just shouldn't be frozen (certain fruits and veg), because when frozen the water contained in the cell structure expands and in turn bursts the containing structure, which causes mushiness. Meats can be refrozen with a slight moisture loss. From what I was taught by my old pastry chef, this whole notion of freezing and refreezing being dangerous was started when electric freezers were just coming into the market (first half of the 20th century), and the cold storage and ice companies were scared of the potential loss of their business (which absolutely happened). It was them that advertised that this refreezing could be detrimental to health. Truth is, refreezing just sends the item into a (mostly) inert state, where bacteria can't harm the item by propagating. However, your question is about the taste and how refreezing pertains to cookie dough. It's not a matter of the refreezing that has an effect on the taste, rather how long things stay in your freezer. You can thaw, refreeze, thaw, refreeze as much as you want. Happens all the time in commercial kitchens and bakeries. The key is to not make so much that it stays in the freezer too long.

Here's and article I found, haven't looked for any others:

Safe food practices

Making Tomato Sauce from Tomato Paste

Question

I've been trying, on-and-off when I have time, to make tomato sauce from a 5 1/2 oz can of tomato paste, but haven't figured out the right proportions of ingredients.

I've been combining a can of tomato paste with about 16 oz of water and some sugar to cut the acidity, and reducing it a little, but all I end up with is watery tomato paste.

It's more likely that I am missing a key ingredient (like a can of diced tomatoes) than a critical preparation step, but I'm curious about other people's experience.

Edit

By "tomato sauce", I mean something functionally equivalent to a store-bought jar of pasta sauce.

Why would anyone want to do this? I honestly have no good reason. It is mere curiosity on my part. Is it possible to get edible results? Or is it guaranteed to be a complete waste of time, not worth even experimenting with?

Answer

I can give you the Italian answer - first of all, normally we don't use tomato paste to make sauce, but rather to add a tomato "kick" to recipes. Tomato paste is simply tomato puree that has been cooked down to a high degree of concentration.

A basic tomato sauce is made by .1 making a soffritto with onion, carrot and celery (plus other flavors) .2 adding tomato puree, or "pelati", more rarely fresh tomato .3 cooking the sauce down until the taste and thickness is what you want

If you want to use paste instead of puree, the third step has to be omitted or greatly reduced in duration. Keep in mind that tomato paste has its own taste, and that taste will remain in the final sauce.

Can I leave out raw already-formed cookies for close to an hour while I wait for the oven to be available?

Question

I'm making a cookie dough and forgot that I already had something in the oven. I prepared a baking sheet of cookies to go into the oven - but there is something already in there that requires another 45 minutes to an hour of baking (I can't fit both in at the same time). Can I leave my cookie sheets with raw cookies out on the counter until the oven is ready? Will this alter the taste of the cookies? (Will they get hard and yucky?) What about the cookie dough that is still in the mixer (and hasn't been formed into cookies yet)? Is there anything I should do to preserve it - i.e. cover the dough/cookies, put it in the fridge, etc?

Answer

You're going to have more issues with cookie-spreading than anything else, because your fat is going to get all warm. If you have a lot of fat in your cookies, you're definitely going to want to put the dough back in the fridge. If the dough is a hard dough, and you don't expect your cookies to significantly change shape during cooking, I wouldn't worry about it.

There is no concern for spoilage for an hour or less on the counter.

What sauce / spices can make a tofu steak taste like a beef steak

Question

I had an unbelievably good tofu steak in a restaurant in Tokyo many years ago. I have never been able to reproduce it.

It tasted uncannily like a beef steak.

What sauce / spices could I use to mimic the steak flavour?

Answer

I don't know anything about cooking tofu, so this is purely addressing the beef flavor part. If you want to make something bland taste more like beef, one the largest issues is going to be adding umami flavor. It is present to some degrees in meats, cheeses, mushrooms, soy sauce, and tomatoes. I'd start with a sauce containing several of these items, and then add some complementary flavors (peppers, citrus, sugar, etc).

How can I make my own vinegar?

Question

How can I turn excess wine into delicious wine vinegar at home? For those who have done it, are there any useful tips to get the best results?

I do not have access to any "mother of vinegar" starter culture, and am not likely to spend money on it; however, I DO have a well-stocked home kitchen and a lot of patience.

Edit: To be more specific about my questions

  • How long should it take to ferment, and when do I give up if it's not vinegary?
  • Do I need to add sugar/water for low-sweetness or high-alcohol wines?
  • How do I collect Mother of Vinegar for use in fresh batches?

Answer

My accidental vinegar just happened, and I have been able to propagate it by pouring the last few teaspoons from one bottle into the next (after drinking half of the next bottle).

It goes pretty slow using an open bottle (too little circulation) but it does go. I open the bottle every day or so and swish the contents around. It takes about 1 weak to even start smelling vinegary, and circa one month to really develop.

I've been sticking with the same variety of wine and not trying to diddle the sugar content.

I still have not developed a mat-like mother, but there does seem to be a culture there. I'm on the fourth generation now.

What is the best way to bake potatoes in embers?

Question

I have fond (and by now possibly largely inaccurate) memories of eating potatoes that had been wrapped in tin foil and baked outside in the embers of a fire.

I'd quite like to reproduce the experience for my kids, but preferably without my "tada!" being destroyed by a charred lump of organic matter, or a raw potato.

I expect it's mostly guesswork (and borderline 'cooking'), but do you have any tips or tricks for getting this right (or nearly so) first time?

Answer

It's actually pretty straight forward and fairly easy to do.

  1. Build a fire. You are building a cooking fire, not a warm hands and look pretty fire. I use a log cabin style fire for this.
  2. Wait for it to burn down so there are plenty of white coals. You don't want lots of "fire". Fire is pretty to look at, but more unpredictable to cook in then hot white coals.
  3. While the fire is burning down, wash and prep your potatoes to bake as you would normally.
  4. Wrap them tightly in tin foil.
  5. Once the fire is burned down to hot, white coals, toss the potatoes directly onto the coals.
  6. Wait until cooked (roughly 40 minutes for an average sized potato, on an average fire, adjust accordingly).
  7. If you have a shovel or something, put some coals on to the actual potato as well, so you're completely surrounding it. It'll speed it up. If you don't have anything handy to handle coals, make sure you flip them half way.
  8. Remove carefully and enjoy.

The moisture of a potato, will allow it to cook without burning. Just make sure you wrap them with no exposed areas, in order to trap the steam.

Preserving dehydrated fruits and vegs

Question

We bought a food dehydrator to make dog treats with. Primarily we're dehydrating yams, apples and bananas. I'm not dehydrating these to crisps because I didn't think I needed to. The dehydrated yams that we buy as dog treats are still pliable and leathery, so I didn't think I needed to dehydrate them totally dry.

The problem I'm having is that these treats are going moldy in about 4 days. Again, the treats we buy never go moldy. I'm assuming they're adding something to the commercial version to stop this.

Does anyone have some hints on what I'm doing wrong or any idea what the commercial brand is putting on them to stop this. The apples seem to be the slimiest first... Should I be drying the apples to crisps?

Answer

You get mold (and less visibly, bacteria) growth after 4-5 days because your water (humidity) content left in the deyhdrated food is greater than 5%. Typically dried apples (and other types of fiberous dried fruit) have humidity levels closer to 20% when you don't dry them to a crisp. That means the treats you make aren't shelf stable, but luckily this can be fixed with some experimentation.

Each food has it's own requirements for preservation. Here are some quick guidelines to try out on apples. For yams and bananas, I would try dehydrating them a bit more closer to being crisps.

Steps:

  1. Wash fruits thoroughly before dehydrating. I don't do this, but you could try using a "fruit wash" (product for washing fruit).

  2. Dehydrating isn't sterilization - the dehydrator isn't hot enough to sterilize the food, so some of these 'nasties' are left on there and waiting for their chance to grow. Commercial-grade food is always sterilized. Because a dehydrater isn't sealed well, I suggest you nuke the treats in your oven for 5-10 minutes on high heat AFTER you dehydrate the stuff, experimenting to make sure you don't dry them out too much in the oven. Also, be careful because the sugar is concentrated in dehydrated fruit, so it will burn easily. Wrapping the fruit in tin-foil before placing it in your oven is a potential trick because this effectively sterilizes the fruit in a steam bath. If you use foil, you'll need to cook them longer - start with 15 minutes.

  3. After the treats are dehydrated and sterilized, try storing them in air-tight containers and always away from light in a cool/dark place. They need 7-10 days to "equilize" the moisture between each dried piece of fruit. Make sure to shake the containers every once in a while so they don't all stick together.

BEYOND THIS, there are more advanced techniques that you can easily try - including conditioning the dried fruits and a number of fruit-baths that preserve the fruits with harmless chemical solutions, like Ascorbic Acid (vitamin C). Try reading more on this link from UC Davis:

http://homeorchard.ucdavis.edu/8229.pdf

(Start Reading on Page 7).

Monday, September 26, 2011

What can I use a tempered glass pot for?

Question

I've recently been thinking about what I can get rid of in my kitchen, and I've been debating throwing out a tempered glass pot like this (without the lid):

Pot image

It's a piece of Pyrex Visions that I've had since college, that I've mostly kept for sentimental reasons. I really only use my cast iron in the kitchen these days, with the occasional copper clad pot thrown in for good measure and I can't really think of a good use for this vintage pot! Except perhaps living in fear of it exploding while on the stove.

Is there a good use for a pot like this, or should I just trash/donate it?

Answer

I see two sides of this question. First, should you keep a redundant tool in your kitchen, and second, is there a specific purpose to this pot.

I may be biased because my kitchen is small, but my point of view is to get rid of any redundant clutter. Get a few pieces of quality cookware and use them every day. There is no sense in having 3 pots which do the same thing, even if one is half a liter bigger than the other one. (The worst situation is when the small one is decent, and the big one is bad quality, but sometimes you need the volume, so you still keep the big one around). If you don't use a thing, remove it from your kitchen. (Of course, donation/ebay is better than trash from a sustainability point of view).

The second question is, even if you don't use it now, is there an occasion where you might want to use it? It so happens that there is.

Generally, it is a bad idea to use Pyrex on the stove (see this question), and the handle makes the pot impractical to use in the oven (you don't give a size, but I bet you can't place it in the center, if you're able to close the oven door at all). But there is something else you can do with it. This thing makes an awesome double boiler.

If you don't have a professional double boiler, the usual way to "build" one at home is to find a bowl and a pot so that the upper rim diameter of the bowl is slightly bigger than the pot's diameter. You put water in the pot, put the bowl on the pot so that its bottom is suspended in the boiling water, and fill the bowl with your ingredients. It works with any moderately heat-resistant bowls (including glass, but don't use nylon), but I prefer to use glass.

First, glass is a bad heat conductor, which means that it heats more gradually and you have more time to work before your ingredients overheat. This makes it much better than steel. Second, glass is transparent. This means that you can see the boiling water and adjust the temperature according to how strong your boil is. You can't do this with a metal or ceramic bowl.

The drawback to this setup is that at some point, your ingredients are close to overheating. You have to remove the bowl from the heat, and do so quickly. Well, by then the bowl is very hot, it is slippery on the outside because of condensed steam, and your mittened hands slip on the rim withot findind purchase, while the hot steam penetrates through the cloth to cook your skin. The best solution would be a glass bowl with a handle, and that's just what you have here.

The problem in using the dish as a double boiler top is that its bottom is rather flat, making it less suited for small amounts of ingredients. Depending on how much you cook at once and how big the pot is, this may or may not an issue. The second problem is that you can't shock cool it to stop an uncontrolled overheating. But being as easy to grab as it is, you can just keep a cool bowl on the counter and dump the ingredients into it in case of emergency.

Conclusion: if you think you need a double boiler often enough to warrant the room occupied by this thing, you can keep it. But if you don't use it often, there is no point keeping it around as just another pot.

How to smoke chicken without it coming out tough?

Question

We bought a smoker and it has been fabulous for doing ribs. However, when we've tried to do chicken in it, it comes out "leathery" and tough. I have had smoked chicken at other people's homes that was DELICIOUS. So, what are we doing wrong? (We've tried whole chicken and parts, both were tough)

Answer

Chicken is difficult to get right in a smoker. Cooking at really low temperatures can result in a rubbery skin. Chicken is one meat where I've never seen the need to go low/slow. Brine the bird if you're worried about drying it out or if you want to get some extra flavor into the meat, but it's not necessary. In any event, make sure you get the skin dry before cooking. Overnight in the fridge should do the trick. I like to rub the skin with vegetable oil and BBQ rub (or sometimes just salt & pepper) and cook it at around 300-350f on the smoker. Not only does it cook faster, it also doesn't take on an overwhelming amount of smoke.

Tweaking a Macaroni & Cheese Cake

Question

This is basically the first loaf I have baked and I am having difficulty knowing how I should tweak it. I have four directions to go with it and would like to know in which direction I should go, or if further tweaking might improve any of the forks below.

So I'm building 'bread' for a grilled cheese sandwich using macaroni (ditalini, actually) and cheese (mornay using 1/2s cheddar, colby-jack, using roux). I am making this bread using a springform pan, so it will also be a 'cake', if you will. So anyway, I need to keep the 'cake' from browning too much, stay moist, not get super crunchy, and turn into a solid, cohesive whole.

I have two primary forks from my first test.

Test #1: 325'f @ 45min

  • browned slightly on bottom and sides after 45 minutes; too loose, not browned
  • raised temp to 425'f applied egg wash to top and edges baked for fifteen; too loose, spotted brown (bottom unknown)
  • applied egg wash to spots, around edges again, baked for fifteen more; less, but still too loose, bottom far too crunchy

Final for Test #1: bottom too browned, too loose

Final: 45 min @ 350'F, applied egg wash, 15 min @ 425'F, applied egg wash, 15 min @ 425'F

Moving Forward

Fork #1: Adjusting temp:time

  • sub fork #2.1.a: lower, slower
  • sub fork #2.1.b: higher, faster

Fork #2: Adding more mornay using a corn starch slurry prior to baking

  • sub fork #2.2.a: mixing corn starch slurry mornay with mac 'n cheese
  • sub fork #2.2.b: mixing just bechamel and corn starch slurry with mac 'n cheese

So what direction would, at least in theory, provide a denser, more cohesive solid, and allow for some browning, though not complete? (The browning will be finished off by egg-wash and cast iron skillet)

Answer

For cohesion, I'd personally try more flour when making the roux (or just more roux relative to the cheese & milk), but I'd also consider an alternative pasta.

Ditalini contributes nothing to structure on its own. If you were to use a longer pasta, even macaroni, there's a chance to it to interlock. I'd look for cavatappi, spiralini, or break up fusilli bucati into shorter lengths. (all are corkscrew tubes).

Roasting sirloin which has already been cut into slices

Question

I was intending to cook roast beef with a joint of sirloin, but unfortunately my wife has returned from the supermarket with the sirloin already cut into slices (it wasn't her fault, and I don't know why the butcher sliced the meat). My question is: would it still be possible to roast the sirloin as if it were one joint or should I try a different cooking method?

Answer

Sirloin is a better steak than a roast, but if that is what you want...

Sear the cut surfaces in a hot pan, and then quickly assemble it into a roast block and twine/skewer it together. Don't go crazy, it is never going to be perfect

Roast as normal, baste a little more often than normal, and maybe trim a few minutes off the time

Now the fun with this is that you can flavour the slices before assembly, garlic, herbs, what ever you like. It's like having a stuffed roast, but already in serving portions. Many people cut pockets into their roast to stuff/flavour it, now you have it done in a large scale

Sunday, September 25, 2011

Why did my omelette turn gray?

Question

I made an omelette today, and it turned out gray. I'm supposing this is because I did some things wrong, the question is what?

  • Beating the eggs too long
  • Mixing the eggs with cream cheese before beating the eggs
  • Too much oil in the pan

My guess is the first two reasons. Do you think that's likely or could it be something else?

Answer

I have a theory about your omelette (and sadly, no means to test it). But I think it is plausible, please feel free to point out logical errors.

I think that the unappetizing coloring is due to the creation of sulfur salts in your pan. Egg whites are rich in sulfur, as are all alliums (including chives). If you heat them enough (you don't mention whether you overcooked the omelette, but it happens often enough), the heat changes the molecules in which the sulfur is bound, and the sulfur atoms (or sulfur containing ions) are free to react with whatever they find around. If they happen to find iron or copper, they form sulfides and sulfates with them. These sulfides and sulfates have colors ranging from blue to green, and pure iron sulfide is black. A mixture of them with the yellow yolk can easily look gray, especially when the color is desaturated through the addition of white cream cheese.

You say you used a coated pan, but there are still possible sources for the iron and copper. First, nuts contain trace elements, including iron and copper. Second, yolks too contain iron (in fact, the bluish coloring on the surface of a hard boiled yolk is an iron sulfide created when the proteins in the egg white denaturated from the heat). Third, you can't exclude contamination of the ingredients (plants sometimes store metal ions from the environment).

I have no way to prove any of the above, but at least it sounds like a good working theory. But I will understand if you aren't eager to reproduce in order to investigate the effect closer.

Is pyrex safe to use on a gas burner?

Question

There seems to be conflicting views on whether a pyrex dish can be used on a gas burner. Can anybody here provide a definitive answer?

Answer

Where do you live? European Pyrex is made from borosilicate glass, the same as in lab equipment. American Pyrex is made from common soda-lime glass.

So first, if you are in America, don't bother trying it at all. Soda-lime glass is sensitive to thermal shock. Even though it's tempered for kitchenware, it is nowhere near good enough for the burner.

In Europe, you could take your chances if you have a bowl you don't mind risking. However, there is still a significant chance that it will break on the burner some day. While I think that they use the same raw material for both kitchen dishes and lab test tubes (which are obviously OK on a gas burner), kitchen stuff is much thicker. This makes it much more likely to break under thermal expansion.

If you decide to make the experiment with a borosilicate Pyrex, take care to warm it gradually, starting with a small flame, and don't pour cold ingredients into it. Proceed at your own risk. And ask yourself if you really have no pots better suited to the task.

Saturday, September 24, 2011

Substitution for beef (veal) in a stew

Question

I have a recipe for an Italian stew that is pretty much just caramelized onions and juice from tomatoes plus veal. My partner does not eat veal so we've substituted stewing beef to good effect, though it takes longer to cook and is not quite as tender.

I'd like to make the dish for some friends of ours, but they don't eat beef of any kind. We've tried it with chicken in the past but the chicken came out tough; we probably cooked it too long. The veal cooks for 1.5-2 hours over very low heat, the stewing beef is more to the 2 hour end, if not a little more. Can I successfully substitute chicken or pork and not have it come out tough? Any pointers on how long to cook it, or how to know when it's cooked but not overcooked?

Thanks!

Answer

I'd suggest skinless bone-in chicken thighs, as they have plenty of fat and collagen to keep them moist and tasty. I've cooked them in French-style wine-based stews, not to mention cacciatorre, for 2-3 hours before now and they just fall off the bone.

It is virtually impossible to overcook them, unless you boil them mercilessly for hours. Just get a nice gentle simmer going - not only will this make the meat tender, but it will improve the flavour of the tomato sauce as well.

Do not use chicken breast - it is far too lean.

Can you identify these chiles on sale in Serbia and Macedonia?

Question

In the market in Niš, Serbia yesterday there were the most beautiful capsicums (bell peppers, red peppers) and chiles on display that I've ever seen.

But also on sale were these "ugly" ones that I first though were some kind of root vegetable due to their characteristic dull finish. Note also the characteristic "etched" concentric rings going around them:

The chiles in a Serbian market.

My Serbian host has little English and after much effort and phone calls was proud to tell me they are called "hot chille peppers", but hopefully the culinary experts here can find a much more specific name or description.

I don't mind if the only names you can find are in Serbian or some other language, but I am interested to know why they look so different to the shiny chiles and how they are put to use in this part of the world, especially uses which differ to the more familiar looking varieties.

Answer

I've now found them on sale in a posh supermarket in Skopje, Macedonia. This time labelled:

The chiles in a Macedonian supermarket.

потекло скопско

пиперки везени

благи / кг

Which Google Translate massages into:

origin Skopje

peppers embroidered

mild / kg

So an answer is "пиперки везени" or "embroidered peppers", for at least one name used in at least one country. Here is a close-up photo giving a better look at the striations:

Close-up.

Marinades: Water vs Oil

Question

What's the theory on using water vs oil for chicken marinades? I ask because of this recipe:

http://recipes.sparkpeople.com/recipe-detail.asp?recipe=1731460

After multiplying the recipe by a lot, it makes a good marinade, but almost all of the other marinades I've seen online involve oil. Why does this one use water?


(In case the link goes bad, the recipe is:

  • 1 Tbsp Honey
  • 1 Tsp Yellow Mustard
  • 1 Tsp Sriracha
  • 1 Tbsp Water)

Answer

Some chemicals and flavours dissolve or bind to water differently from oil. For example, chili binds with oil much better than with water and the honey in your recipe will dissolve into the water which it would not do in oil.

nutrition facts: what does “as packaged” mean?

Question

I was looking on a box of Hamburger Helper Cheeseburger Macaroni I bought. The nutrition facts read "as packaged", it only contains 0.5g fat, 120 calories per serving. I assumed this means everything in the box, including the dry mix. Now I'm having second thoughts about the definition of "as packaged", since macaroni and cheese is often around 4-8g fat per serving.

  • What does "as packaged" mean? Is it just the macaroni, or does it include everything in the box as its sold?

The recipe calls for ground beef, but surprisingly this doesn't add any protein to the "as prepared" numbers of the nutrition facts.

This is what the FDA says, but I just want to be sure.

As packaged” refers to the state of the product as it is marketed for purchase. “As prepared” refers to the product after it has been made ready for consumption (e.g., ingredients added per instructions and cooked such as a cake mix that has been prepared and baked or a condensed or dry soup that has been reconstituted).

I also sent an e-mail to Betty Crocker / General Mills but have yet to receive a response.

Answer

If an item of food is stored for a long time, the nutritional values might reduce. Other processes such as freezing, thawing and cooking will also have an effect on the nutrition. Thus the figures given on the box are correct at the time of packaging. The figures at that time might be different from when you actually get to eat the food. In the case of your macaroni, it could absorb or loose water while in storage so the % values would only be correct at the time of packaging. Thus "as packaged" is a reference to the time of packing not the packaging itself.

As to the low fat content, dried powdered foods usually are low fat as it is difficult to make the powder with fat. They will probably have used a hard, low fat cheese such as Parmesan, or a cheese flavouring, rather than Cheddar.

Friday, September 23, 2011

Should french fries be fried two times?

Question

Most professional cookbooks tell me to fry french fries two times. First at a lower temperature of about 150-170°C and then at a higher temperature about 180-190°C.

Reference: http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Cookbook:French_Fries#Variations

Related: What varieties of potato would be good for chips / french fries?

What are the advantages of frying the potatoes two times?

Answer

The lower (first) temperature actually cooks the potato so that it is tender, the hotter temperature (second) is what gives the crispy golden coating.

If you just did the lower temperature, your fries might be too soft. If you just did the hotter temperature they would be too too tough.

What cheeses work 'best' in melted cheese sandwich applications?

Question

I enjoy both toasted and grilled cheese sandwiches, but I generally only alternate between havarti and muenster cheese. I would like to branch out but don't know where to start. These are the factors I think are important in melted cheese sandwiches:

  1. Melt well and fairly quickly
  2. Fairly mild taste and texture
  3. Generally available
  4. Be a natural, dairy cheese (aka not Cheeze Whiz or American cheese)

What cheeses fit these requirements? Are there other components that are vital to the cheese element of melted cheese sandwiches?

Answer

Gruyere is DELICIOUS. It melts without getting too gooey or soupy, and it is the traditional cheese component of a Croque Monsieur (if you're into that ham thing...). You could actually probably use any of the cheeses in that "variations" list, but I love Gruyere so that's my recommendation. It's widely available but tends to be kind of pricey here in the US.

Brie is also a good choice; since it is soft to begin with, it melts nicely. (Just make sure to cut off the rind before putting in the sandwich - that would be a weird texture combo.) It's great in grilled or toasted cheese sandwiches because of the richness and slightly buttery flavor.

As a local reference, check out Gorilla Cheese's menu for some tasty ideas; they do classic grilled cheeses with cheddar, American, gruyere or mozzarella, but they make others that have additions of other non-cheese components.

How should block cheese be stored for maximum shelf life?

Question

Just like it says in the title, how can I store blocks of cheese for max shelf life? I will be making a grilled cheese sandwich and shredding 3 varieties of cheese (cheddar, swiss, parm(?)) and I am afraid that I won't be able to use three whole blocks on one sandwich.

Answer

Hard, aged cheeses like cheddar and Parmesan are fine to freeze, particularly if you're going to be melting them when you get around to using them anyway. Freezing causes ice particles to break up the molecules of the cheese, and when they thaw, they leave holes in what was (prior to freezing) a pretty smooth cheese. So you might notice if you freeze blocks of cheese, they are more crumbly when you unfreeze them than they were when you bought them. The cheeses you're working with should be fine if stored properly, but softer / creamier cheeses (brie, harvarti, etc.) might become somewhat unpleasant if you freeze them.

As far as storage is concerned, you can actually do one of two things:

  1. Grate the cheese before you freeze it. All you need to do for this method is grate your cheese and put it in a ziploc freezer bag (thicker than a regular zip-top bag). Just make sure to squeeze the air out before sealing, and seal it well.
  2. Freeze the cheese in blocks. Wrap them in plastic wrap and then put then in a ziploc bag, and you should be all set; it'll keep for 4-6 months. (source)

No matter which method you use, you may notice a slight change in texture. Make sure you thaw the cheese before using it. (Though I've put frozen shredded mozzarella on pizza and frozen shredded Mexican cheese blend - a blend of cheddar, monterey jack, queso blanco and asadero - on tacos and not had any trouble.)

Creating differing temperature fluid gels that stay separate

Question

At the Fat Duck they serve a mug of hot and iced tea. The drink is served in a single cup yet the two different temperature drinks stay separate side by side with no barrier between them.

I believe this is done by using fluid gels rather than liquids but how do you actually make this. What gelling agent would you use and in what quantities? How would you actually get it into the cup maintaining separation?

Answer

This is done, and explained in the Big Fat Duck cook book, by creating a hot fluid gel and a cold fluid gel and then fitting a tight divider down the centre of the glass. Fill both sides equally, remove the divider, serve immediately.

you can follow the link and 'look inside' to see the page which has the recipe for this on to see exactly how to do it. search inside for 'hot and cold tea', then its on pages 274 and 275, so just follow those links.

The gelling agent used is gellan F, and making the gels requires making two parts for each and mixing them together. The details of the recipies are not availabale at the amazon.com site, only amazon.co.uk, although you can access it from outside the uk

How to make puffed/popped rice?

Question

Is it possible to make puffed rice at home like the rice used in breakfast cereals? I have a hot air popcorn maker and have experimented with that with little success.

I imagine the problem is to do with the moisture content of the rice, so far I've only tried with dried Basmati. Does it need moisture to expand to create the puffed effect? If so does par boiling the rice work? If so how long would I need to do it to get the ideal moisture content.

Answer

Interesting question. Did search 'how do I make puffed rice'. Came up with some interesting information.

There are some writings that suggest that puffed rice can be made like popcorn; get the moisture in the grains of rice to the correct level (no idea what the level should be, experimentation should guide you I suppose) and then (depending on what source you read) put in a popcorn popper, put it on sheets in the oven or fry it in oil.

The history indicates that the first puffed rice made in the U.S. was actually shot from a cannon, after, I presume, being thoroughly soaked to some level of softness; there was a cereal advert in the '60s that bragged "this is the cereal that's shot from guns". Am thinking that the softening of the rice, probably by cooking, and then putting it into a pressure vessel in which the pressure is allowed to rise to a certain PSI (pounds per square inch) and explosively releasing the pressure, causes the grains to boil or fizz or effervesce, gives them the light puffiness we see at the market.

If I'm reading the information correctly, the devices to make puffed rice are available

Here is a link to a video showing the explosive creation of puffed rice by a traveling puffed rice manufactury on a bicycle in Taiwan;

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-3915559836111131480#docid=-4928826327589404249

Here are some other links, kind of vague, regarding non explosive puffed rice:

http://recipes.howstuffworks.com/question393.htm

http://www.cheftalk.com/t/20752/how-to-make-puffed-rice

http://www.indiamike.com/india/indian-recipes-f108/how-to-make-puffed-rice-at-home-t94003/

This last link has some history & speculation of how puffed rice has been made non explosively using hot salt, or sand...didn't read all of the ideas.

Have fun, and be safe.

What could be used as a savoury custard to serve with a savoury jam roly-poly?

Question

I'm not mad, you know.

I have this plan to serve a meal backwards - coffee and brandy, then dessert, then a main, then starters, then champagne. Except that of course each stage will be tailored to work in the actual order, which mostly means making a savoury dessert and a sweet starter.

Honestly, i'm really not mad. I've been tested.

For the savoury dessert, i plan to make that celebrated stodgy English treat, jam roly-poly. To make it savoury, i will use something like red pesto instead of jam. Or it might be a savoury version of some other suet pudding - spotted dick or figgie hobbin with olives instead of currants, perhaps.

Pudding needs custard. What can i use as a savoury custard?

One option is simply to make a savoury custard. Cream, eggs, no sugar, and perhaps black pepper instead of vanilla. Would that work from a purely physico-chemical point of view? Would it be disgusting? Apparently it works on top of moussaka, but that's a baked custard.

How about a Béchamel sauce, or some derivative of it? Perhaps with some cheese, to make it a custardy yellow and give it more interest?

A Hollandaise sauce might be the closest thing to a savoury custard, what with having eggs in. I've never made one, though, and it looks too difficult for me.

Any thoughts?

Answer

Why not make a thick cream sauce, like an Alfredo or some such?

It's basically some cream with some white wine and maybe a little flour. You can add some parmesan to it, if you want it a little thicker and yellower.

I'm not sure what would happen if you beat an egg into it as well, but it might be worth a chance.

I'd also consider using beetroot for the filling. It has a very satisfying red colour, and it's a little sweet in itself, which should go well.

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Should I buy a mechanical chopper?

Question

A popular example of this device is the heavily-advertised Slap Chop tool.

Is there any advantage to buying one of these? Do they tend to be as effective as advertised, and if so, what features should I look for, and how long can I expect it to last?

Answer

I have tried a number of similar tools and find that the Pampered Chef "Specialty Cutting Tools: Food Chopper" to be the best-in-breed for choppers. It is

  • sturdy, it is well built and will last.
  • reliable, after cleaning it assembles easily and works consistently
  • easy to clean, opens up easily and is dishwasher safe.

I find this model works well for small chopping tasks, such as those advertised with the "slap chop". If you have more than "a handful" of material to chop you will do well to divide it into smaller bundles. Much more and it is time to move to a larger device.

Mine if 5-6 years old, with no signs of slowing down.


  1. I am not a Pampered Chef rep
  2. I do not broadly endorse their products. Many of their items are "not so good"

What is a good recipe that uses a lot of evaporated and/or sweetened milk? [closed]

Question

I have 60 oz of evaporated milk and don't know what to cook with it. I have found some recipes, but they only call for 12 oz to be used and I'm about to get another 36 oz. What is a good recipe (or recipes) that use a lot of evaporated milk? Breakfast, lunch, dinner, snack, or desert recipes are welcome. This question taught me that I can turn some of it into sweetened condensed milk, so that can be one of the ingrediants too.

Answer

Flan, a type of custard, is the same as crème caramel, tasty desert.

Pumpkin pie uses a bunch of evaporated milk.

Ducle de leche is a terrific desert topping and filling, translated literally it means 'sweet of milk'. The reason I mention this is that in Argentina and Chile, cans of sweetened condensed milk are boiled, unopened, on the stove for some hours to produce dulce de leche. I understand that what you have is evaporated milk, which is different; there is no reason not to try using it to make this delicious treat.

Here is a link with a bazillion uses for evaporated milk:

http://www.carnationmilk.ca/recipes.aspx

What can be cooked on a stovetop grill pan? [closed]

Question

I'm thinking of buying a stovetop grill pan similar to this one:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Q6PDRREML._SL500_AA300_.jpg

What can something like be used for? I.e, could it be used for grilling a chicken breast or vegetables like egg plant, and/or everything else that can be barbequed?

If so, what would be the method of cooking on this, i.e, would I need to oil the grill? How much would I have to heat it up? Would I marinate my chicken breast or can it be put on without any marination?

Answer

First off, even if you're not a cast iron fan - don't get a non-stick grill pan. They're not meant for high heat. The cast iron version is highly recommended.

The trick to using a grill pan on the stove is to realize how it relates to cooking on a real grill. Treat it as you would if you were grilling over direct coals with the lid open on a grill. If you would finish the meat strictly like that on the grill, then you could finish it fully on the stovetop. Think burgers, sausages, stuff like that.

If you would move it off to indirect heat on the grill to finish, then that's when you need to consider it moving it to the oven. Sear a chicken breast a couple of minutes per side and then put it in the oven to finish.

As far as what food, I can't imagine anything that you would normally cook on the grill that you couldn't fashion to fit on the grill pan. Obviously, food will lose that smokey flavor. Consider smoked paprika or liquid smoke to add a bit of that flavor back in your food.

What is the impact of repeated cooling and reheating of maple syrup?

Question

Today I discovered a 1/4-full bottle of pure maple syrup had gotten moldy, so searched this site and came across this question: Should maple syrup be stored in the refrigerator?

My follow-up question is: Will there be any ill effects (such as altering the flavor or changing the molecular structure such that it's dangerous to eat, etc) from repeatedly heating maple syrup for serving, and re-cooling in the fridge?

If so, I'll try to only heat as much syrup as I'm likely to use at a time, although this will be more hassle, naturally :)

Answer

Flimzy,

If you use a lot of maple syrup, you won't need to refrigerate it; it'll keep at room temperature (depending on the temperature of your room) for a few weeks.

Repeated heating and cooling, in my long experience with pure maple syrup at home, does not affect the flavor or color of the syrup. This makes sense when you realize that maple syrup is boiled for hours in its manufacture.

However, it can cause the syrup to crystallize, and I haven't found a good easy way to decrystallize syrup (the hard way is dissolving it in water and boiling it down again). For this reason, I only heat up the amount of syrup I intend to use at a time.

I am not a food safety expert; I'm just speaking from my experience at home.

What's in a 'Paella'?

Question

Answering this question, I made an ass of myself claiming that

  1. Onions are not used in a real Paella.
  2. Tomatoes neither.
  3. Paprika / Pimentón neither as this will overpower the saffron flavor.

I've seen loads of recipes with all of these ingredients in some way or other (and I posted a recipe with all of these ingredients :-( ).

As I understand it, onions are not used because the will 'pass' the rice. I have no idea whether this is true or not, but I've never eaten a paella with onions. Not that I usually eat paella.

The tomatoes and pimentón will impart too much flavor so it will overpower the saffron taste (by far the most expensive spice on earth). Food coloring can be used to make the paella 'saffron' yellow.

The question is, what defines a real paella? One definition of paella is the 'pan' or 'skillet' itself, meaning that whatever rice dish you make in it can be called paella, but I'd rather have a more 'traditional' view as to what ingredients can or cannot/should or shouldn't be used.

  • Onions (yes or no)
  • Tomato (yes or no)
  • Paprika (no :-)
  • Saffron (yes)

Answer

Penelope Casas' The Foods and Wines of Spain explains that

Paella is a word that has come worldwide to mean a Spanish rice dish with a variety of seafood and usually some chicken. However, the word originally referred only to the pan in which the food was cooked--the paella or paellera, from the Latin word for pan, patella. Paellas actually come in endless varieties, depending on the chef and on regional specialties.

She emphasizes the technique more than traditional ingredients (which she notes that no two Spaniards will agree on), but includes recipes for a number of different rice dishes from many regions, all prepared in basically the same manner.

Interestingly, her Paella a la Valenciana (Tradicional) actually doesn't call for saffron (it does call for paprika). The meats are snails and rabbit, and she does call for an onion, but it's only used to steep for a while in the broth, and later discarded. She includes a single tomato which is cooked down with green peppers and garlic. Most of her other paella recipes include onion in this step, but it is notably absent from this recipe. She also calls for lima beans and "wide, flat string beans", and serve the dish with scallions on the side.

Are there culinary uses for the water left from peeling almonds?

Question

Is there a possible use for the water used for peeling almonds?

(Throw the almonds in boiling water and let them soak for a couple of mins before peeling them: the water left is yellowish and almond scented)

Answer

Generally, there is no reason not to use it. However, I'm hard pressed to think of a good place, generally because good cooking prefers other, stronger flavored liquids instead of water.

An application where you can have the flavor on its own would be making ayran or a lassi. I think it would be an improvement over plain-water-ayran.

For other uses, just substitute plain water to get a slight nutty hint. I like to pair rice with nuts, so you could use it instead of pure water to cook rice. Or add it to a pot of stock you are making - with a complex stock of a meat and several vegetables, it will be too subtle a taste to register consciously, but will enrich the flavor as a whole. For a simpler stock (e.g. just chicken with classic mirepoix) the taste of almonds can get too strong, depending on the quantity you use.

How to suppress bad breath after eating garlic or onion

Question

How can I suppress bad breath after eating garlic or onion?

Answer

  1. Brush and floss your teeth
  2. Scrape your tongue
  3. Chew gum or mints
  4. Chew mint, parsley, basil, fennel, licorice, anise, cardamom, clove, or cinnamon
  5. Gargle with baking soda and salt
  6. Gargle with hydrogen peroxide
  7. Gargle with water and lemon
  8. Gargle with alcohol or mouthwash
  9. Hydrate

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Why is sauteing beneficial?

Question

I've seen multiple recipes which say to saute onions, peppers, green beans, etc. Why not microwave the food to the temperature you want and then mix it (along with the oil previously used to saute) straight into everything else -- skipping the saute step?

In other words, what does the sauteing accomplish?

Answer

The flip answer is that sauteed food will taste good, and the microwaved version you're describing will not.

A more useful answer, however, would consider physics and chemistry. Microwaving excites molecules, resulting in heat, presuming an adequate supply of water molecules to excite. Sauteeing conducts heat from the heat source to the food by way of the pan.

Microwaving falls somewhere between radiant heating (like an oven) and steaming, though the results from conventional methods are generally superior. Sauteeing can transfer enough heat quickly enough that desirable effects like caramelization and similar effects like browning are effected with the help of fats and sugars (often referred to as a Maillard reaction), which produces volatile compounds that are very aromatic and contribute a lot to our perception of flavor. It's exceptionally hard to create the same effects with a microwave.

How should I boil green beans to keep them crisp?

Question

I just pulled fresh Blue Lake Bush green beans from my garden, snapped the ends and wanted to boil them, while keeping then crisp. How should I boil them so they are cooked through, but not limp?

Answer

You shouldn't cook more than a few minutes, and should cool them as quickly as possible afterwards. Ideally, you'll be blanching them, and here's how:

  1. Bring a pot of water with a pinch of salt in it to a roiling boil
  2. Dump beans in, and cook for a few minutes
  3. Check that beans are fully cooked (time will vary by variety and ripeness of beans)
  4. Strain beans, and IMMEDIATELY transfer to an prepared ice water bath to cool as fast as possible

This ensures beans are precisely cooked, but do not have a chance to over-cook, and using the ice water helps them retain color and flavor.

It's how we get deliciously crisp haricot vert (French green beans) at the restaurant I work for. Note that cooking times and crispness will also vary based on the variety and age at which the beans were picked.

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Baking potatoes in embers

Question

I have fond (and by now possibly largely inaccurate) memories of eating potatoes that had been wrapped in tin foil and baked outside in the embers of a fire.

I'd quite like to reproduce the experience for my kids, but preferably without my "tada!" being destroyed by a charred lump of organic matter, or a raw potato.

I expect it's mostly guesswork (and borderline 'cooking'), but do you have any tips or tricks for getting this right (or nearly so) first time?

Answer

It's actually pretty straight forward and fairly easy to do.

  1. Build a fire. You are building a cooking fire, not a warm hands and look pretty fire. I use a log cabin style fire for this.
  2. Wait for it to burn down so there are plenty of white coals. You don't want lots of "fire". Fire is pretty to look at, but more unpredictable to cook in then hot white coals.
  3. While the fire is burning down, wash and prep your potatoes to bake as you would normally.
  4. Wrap them tightly in tin foil.
  5. Once the fire is burned down to hot, white coals, toss the potatoes directly onto the coals.
  6. Wait until cooked (roughly 40 minutes for an average sized potato, on an average fire, adjust accordingly).
  7. If you have a shovel or something, put some coals on to the actual potato as well, so you're completely surrounding it. It'll speed it up. If you don't have anything handy to handle coals, make sure you flip them half way.
  8. Remove carefully and enjoy.

The moisture of a potato, will allow it to cook without burning. Just make sure you wrap them with no exposed areas, in order to trap the steam.

Technical name for a manual food processor

Question

I am looking to buy a food processor to do very small batches of fruit and vegetables. Very basic, very cheap....and i am looking for something manual(not electricity). Is there a manual version existing? What is it called?

Answer

I believe the term you're looking for is 'chopper'. Here and here for example.

This, a draw string powered chopper, is an interesting idea as well - I have difficultly believing it can produce enough force though.

And there's the rotating handle, crank kind.

You've got options.

Or even more basic, 'knife' ;)

Why does my first batch of cookies come out nice while later batches get thin?

Question

The first few batches I bake look good and have a nice thickness to them. The last few batches are thinner. Why would that happen? For reference, I use the Nestle Tollhouse Chocolate Chip recipe.

Answer

The fat in your dough started to soften/melt - especially if you have a hot oven running in the kitchen. Keep your dough cold in the fridge between batches.

See this question for more details on the issue in general, but for your situation, keep it cold between batches. You seem to have started correctly, which is good - you just have to keep it going right.

How do I squeeze gelatine?

Question

Every recipe I've seen which uses gelatine says to soak and squeeze it, but none of them say how to squeeze it. I've only cooked once with gelatine, and I just squeezed it in my hand, but I was worried about losing it all through my fingers and I'm not sure I actually squeezed any water out of it.

Is squeezing it in the fist the correct way? If not, what equipment should I be looking out for?

Answer

I've always done it with my hands. Just don't let it soak too long, it will still be in one piece and will be generally easy to handle.

Doner kebab aroma

Question

Doner kebab is a kind of food which draws every person who is passing by just with the aroma coming from the place where they make them. In a place where I live they make doner kebabs using pork or even chicken instead of mutton and the aroma is still the same so I guess it's not the meat but the spices and/or the way they prepare it.

Now the question is what is the source of the aroma and whether it can be reproduced at home. If so, how?

Answer

I think that most of the trick with the doner kebab places is simply the time and the amount of meat. The way the gyro is set up, there's always meat cooking on the outside (near the grill heat), which sends out the aroma. Since the spit is usually a metre high, that's a lot of meat, giving off a lot of aroma. Also, remember that the shop has meat grilling form early morning to late evening, so the aroma has plenty of time to start up and get around. When cooking at home, you won't be actually cooking for more than a few minutes, so it hardly has time to get started.

A minor thing, which may be related (and may not), is that in doner kebab places, there's usually a chunk of mutton fat at the top of the spit, which slowly drips down on all the meat. This could be responsible for some of the smell at least.

Is there an alternative wrap for spring rolls other than rice paper?

Question

I've been making spring rolls (the deep-fried variety) for some time now, and they are really good, but I've noticed some Asian restaurants use something else for wrapping them than the generic, translucent 'rice paper' I get at the store. Theirs are often smoother, yellowish and opaque, like in this photo from Wikipedia. A new book on Thai cuisine I got just recently also has them looking like that in the pohotos and it mentions some mysterious "spring roll wads" which I've yet to come across in any store in my country. Anyways, what is it exactly, can I make some of my own and if so, how?

EDIT: Also, does the preparation of the rolls differ any when using an alternative wrapper, or can I just deep-fry them just the same?

Answer

The non-rice paper rolls are probably made with wheat flour instead of rice flour, so they should be just as sturdy and stand up to deep frying as well or better than rice paper, which has always been fairly delicate and hard to work with in my limited experience.

Here is an image of flour egg roll wrappers in their uncooked state: enter image description here

What are toffee potatoes?

Question

I came across a reference to this in an article about Scandinavia.

They are apparently a regional delicacy.

Answer

I think the toffee potatoes in the article must be "Brune kartofler". The literal translation is "brown potatoes". They are simply small potatoes covered in caramelized sugar. The photo Ocaasi links to are potatoes gone terribly wrong. I think the photo caption is ironic.

They are a traditional side dish for any christmas meal with pork roast or duck. Here is a video that shows how they are made:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LYoJ14RIIhs

The recipe is as follows: Boil small potatoes. Peal them. Distribute sugar evenly in the pan. Warm until the sugar caramelizes. Add butter in small pieces (amount of butter and sugar are equal). When the butter is incorporated add the potatoes. Distribute the caramel over the potates. After 10 minutes the potatoes are done. They should now have a nice layer of caramel around them.

Why do my first batch of cookies come out nice while later batches get thin?

Question

The first few batches I bake look good and have a nice thickness to them. The last few batches are thinner. Why would that happen? For reference, I use the Nestle Tollhouse Chocolate Chip recipe.

Answer

The fat in your dough started to soften/melt - especially if you have a hot oven running in the kitchen. Keep your dough cold in the fridge between batches.

See this question for more details on the issue in general, but for your situation, keep it cold between batches. You seem to have started correctly, which is good - you just have to keep it going right.

Frying pan width - from base or rim?

Question

I have a recipe that calls for a frying pan about 20cm across - should I measure from the base, or the top rim?

Answer

Manufacrurers measure the rim, so I guess the recipe calls for a pan which is 20 cm across the rim.

It may seem counterintuitive that the recipe specifies such a small pan (that's less than 8 inch for you Americans). But it can have good reasons.

Most recipes aren't dependent on pan size (much). But if you make a small quantity of some sauces, you want it to be thick enough in the pan to heat evenly, instead of a thin smearing of stuff on the bottom of the pan which will overheat quickly. So if you suspect that this is the case, it makes sense to actually use a small pan.

For many other recipes, overcrowding the pan is not too good. If you say what you are trying to make, we could give you an indication whether the size is important in your case.

Why would chicken have significant regional differences in flavor?

Question

Is it possible that (for example) chicken raised in the United States has a different flavor from chicken raised in Europe? If so, why?

Are there genetic differences in the "breeds" of chicken used in various countries?

Answer

Antibiotics might be a reason, but it's not the only cause. Other significant reasons are:

  • exercise
  • feed
  • post-processing

Most of the chicken available in grocery stores in the U.S. is factory raised ... they're bulked up as quickly as possible without threat of predators. They're fed corn, rather than their acting as pest control on farms, where they'd be eating insects, moving about (in their search for insects and other things to eat), and possibly running away from predators (getting more exercise). That's not to say that free roaming chickens wouldn't be fed corn or other processed feed (or even antiobiotics), but that they'd still have an opportunity for other food. The lack of predators means that chickens never have to fly, so they don't need fast-twitch breast muscle, and they can grow to a size where they'd never be able to fly, even for short flight to excape predators.

Also not common in the U.S. are old chickens for stewing ... we have large chickens, but not necessarily the old ones, such as formerly egg-laying chickens that are no longer producing eggs. I have no idea what's done with those ... they're not in grocery stores, so I assume that they're used in some other way (dog food?).

One other possibility is the gender of the chicken. I don't believe that males are raised for meat (or anything else, really, other than in token amounts to sustain the species) in the U.S.. I assume that a higher percentage of roosters would be produced in other countries, but I have no idea if they might be culled early (if there are agression issues, etc, that would make them difficult to raise), like male cows are.

And as for the post-processing comment ... much of the U.S. chicken is sold cut up, possibly with a brine solution injected, rather than being sold whole. This doesn't seem like a big deal, other than the possibility of the brining, but it also means that chickens have been selectively bred for breast meat, rather than whole carcass weight. It also means that most of what we're eating is white meat, rather than a mix of white & dark meat.

Is there an alternative to condensed milk?

Question

In Denmark we don't have condensed milk in our regular stores and I've actually only seen it in an UK-import store a few years ago. Is there an alternative to it or can you craft it with regular cooking equipment?

Answer

To make sweetened condensed milk:

The best make-your-own version is to mix 1 cup of evaporated milk with 1-1/4 cups of sugar in a saucepan, heat and stir until the sugar is completely dissolved, and let cool.

If you don't have evaporated milk on hand either, you can make your own by slowly simmering any quantity of milk in a pan until it reduced by 60%, and then adding the sugar.

Source: http://www.ochef.com/125.htm

Another recipe that sounds like a lot more work and uses powdered milk: http://www.ehow.com/how_4903555_make-condensed-milk.html

Dark barley water

Question

I happened across the wikipedia article on barley water today, and it features a photo of some very dark barley water:

dark barley water

As far as I know, barley water is normally much lighter than that. Where does the dark color come from? Is that perhaps not just barley water?

Answer

It is unlikely that pure barley, however strong the malting, will produce such a dark color. I think it is safe to assume that it is colored.

In Germany, this (or a very similar) beverage is called Malzbier (See the English Wikipedia article on Malzbier) It is an alcohol free drink made with malted barley, and commonly colored with the food coloring E 150 (Look at the site of this popular drink, third FAQ item from the end). This is a coloring created by letting different types of sugar undergo a Maillard reaction, and can be considered a type of caramel. So it can be used in a malt drink in relatively high amounts without introducing an unusual taste or presenting a health risk.

If you have seen lighter barley water until now, this is probably because different producers use different amounts of coloring. It is probably a regional thing, the drink in the picture is produced in Spain, maybe they like their malted drinks darker.

Is lots of red juice normal when making sous-vide steak?

Question

So I made a 1lb hanger steak via sous-vide the other day and cooked it for 45 minutes at 130F.

After I seared in a cast iron pan, I took the meat off of the pan and let it sit for a few minutes and then sliced it up(against the grain) into smaller portions.

I noticed a lot of red juice in the plate as I was slicing it up but after I put it on a plate and it was sitting at the table, the meat almost ended up swimming in red juice.

When I order medium rare steak at a restaurant and it comes out pre-sliced, I don't usually notice this much red juice.

Is this normal?

Answer

Pretty much...yes, but you can fix it!.

When you properly sous vide or very slow cook anything, you'll retain more of the myoglobin color because of the even cooking that often doesn't go above 140 at all. So a properly cooked steak like this will retain much more of its red colored myoglobin. Simply put, the meat will have more red juices to release! (Its a great, great thing about sous vide.)

As @Ronald mentions, the other thing is the resting of the meat. It's an important step as the muscle fibers relax after the heat is off and hold juices better then. An often misstep for the home cook is they allow a hot piece of meat to rest on a flat, solid surface. This causes the bottom of the meat to steam against the board, open the fibers in the meat more, and release the juices on to the board. Rest your meat on a raised baking rack so that it has air circulation all around it.

After a short rest - for most steak 10 minutes is fine, then you can cut into the steak. Use a very sharp knife to slice. The meat here is essentially a sponge and you don't want to compress it and squeeze out the juices. A dull knife will do this and you'll lose more juice on the cutting board again. Use a sharp knife and apply steady, even, but light pressure while slicing - let the edge do the work (if it won't, sharpen the knife more).

Should cheese be frozen?

Question

I just put a piece of parmesan cheese into the freezer part of a fridge. Is this practice good or bad? I did this because when I bought the cheese, I could not back to home immediately and the cheese stayed in room temperature (30 degree celsius maybe) for a day, I was afraid that the cheese would be soften, so I made a though of putting it into the freezer. Then I did it and haven't taken it out yet. In addition, the package of the cheese is not yet opened.

Also I was afraid the lower part of the fridge would be open frequently and some air will condense within the fridge, so I thought put the cheese into the freezer maybe better, because the cheese was frozen.

Any comment?

Answer

I freeze cheese all the time, mostly mozzarella. It keeps longer. (If I keep mozzarella or similar cheeses too long in the fridge it gets moldy, often even before its expiration date.) However, I usually use frozen cheese only for cooking - i.e. if it's going to be melted. Freezing cheese does change the texture. Parmesan, though, being a hard, aged cheese would probably be less affected by freezing. However, on the same token, aged cheeses keep very nicely in the fridge, so I wouldn't see much benefit in freezing it.

Why does my first cookies come out nice and later batches get thin?

Question

The first few batches that get backed look good and have a thickness to them. The last few batches are thinner. Why would that happen? I follow the nestle tollhouse chocolate chip recipe.

Answer

The fat in your dough started to soften/melt - especially if you have a hot oven running in the kitchen. Keep your dough cold in the fridge between batches.

See this question for more details on the issue in general, but for your situation, keep it cold between batches. You seem to have started correctly, which is good - you just have to keep it going right.

What are the differences between candy thermometers and meat thermometers?

Question

I know that meat thermometers generally won't handle as high a temperature range as candy, but I'm only planning to make caramels and fudge (so soft ball and firm ball) and that's within the range of the meat thermometer that I already own.

Also, meat thermometers are often labelled "medium well" etc., rather than "soft ball". Since I have access to the temps required, that's not an issue.

I'm definitely a noob to candy, so is there some magical reason I can't use a meat thermometer for my candy? Is it a huge no-no? Does it contain leprechauns that will destroy my caramels?

Answer

I think Doug and yossarian both touched on the main points, but to summarize, there are four reasons why you might not want to use a meat thermometer for candy:

  1. Range A meat thermometer might go from 140 F to 220 F or something like that, which is plenty for meat. Candy often requires a range from about 75 degrees (chocolate) up to 400+ degrees (hard candy). The range on most thermometers is simply not sufficient for most candies.
  2. Accuracy When you temper chocolate, 88 F degrees is an ideal working temperature (for dark chocolate). Some people would consider 91 so high you might want to think about starting over. When you make caramels, the difference between 235 F and 240 F can be the difference between wonderfully chewy caramels and a sugar-flavored rock. If you can't read one degree increments at a glance, you need a real candy thermometer.
  3. Speed Meat thermometers often take 30 seconds to a minute to get an accurate result. When you are making candies, you have to be able to tell what the temperature is right now.
  4. Contamination I don't want the thermometer that goes in semi-raw meat anywhere near my chocolate.

How to take care of glazed earthenware?

Question

I got a traditional gyveche (гювече) as a gift, and since it would be hard to replace here, I intend to take good care of it.

For those who don't know it, a gyuveche is an earthenware pot intended for baking a single portion of casserole-like mediterannean dishes. There are unglazed and glazed ones; mine is glazed both on the outside and the inside. That's a picture of one similar to mine.

gyuveche

I have some trouble cleaning it. I'm not yet used to it, and sometimes bake the dish too long, which means that I get overbaked egg caked on the inside.

My usual strategies against overbaked egg are a stainless steel wire pad and soaking. But I'm afraid that the wire pad will hurt the glaze and that soaking will seep into the clay. Is this really a concern? If I can't use wire pad or soaking, what is my best option? The rough side of the sponge isn't enough by itself.

Also, if anybody has general tips about the care, I'll be glad to hear them.

Answer

Speaking as a potter, do not use the wire pad.

The pot you have is a very low-fire ceramic, and the glaze is most likely softer than steel, so a wire pad could scratch the inside of the pot irreparably. Note that this is not true of high-fire ceramic, which is harder than steel (as is glass).

There is no issue with soaking the pot, really. Water will not hurt it. It is possible, even likely, that the clay will soak up water through its bottom or tiny cracks in the glaze. In this case, you just need to make sure the pot is dry before exposing it to sudden heat, or it could crack. Dry it on a dishrack, or even in a low-temperature (less than 200F) oven. Also, don't use very much soap while soaking it, as the pot may soak up some of the soap and affect the flavor of the food.

Additionally, several companies make plastic or even copper scrub pads. I've found, in particular, that the red-and-yellow plastic scrub pads made by Tuffy are particularly effective for scrubbing delicate surfaces. I don't know if the copper scrub pads are pure copper, so I don't know if they will scratch your pot or not.

Finally, let me also recommend against putting your gyveche through the dishwasher. Not only will this expose the pot to almost certain chipping, but the porous earthenware may soak up bleach which can both ruin your food and cause the clay to break down and chip or crack.

By the way, that's a beautiful pot. I can see why you like using it.